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In Utah This Week
SLC Chefs: Phelix Gardner of The Wild Grape
http://dev.inthisweek.com/view.php?id=133921
Posted 2009-03-05 12:57:33 by Kelly Ashkettle
How did you first know you wanted a career in the culinary arts? I started cooking as a summer job, and just never stopped.
What training have you had? 17 years of cooking experience, plus culinary school and a business degree.
What do you think it takes to be a good chef? A good palate, a decent amount of creativity, and a ton of organizational skills.
What's your specialty? Cooking seasonal food, while using classic techniques.
What is your philosophy of cooking? Keep it fresh, keep it local, and do as little to the food as you can.
How would you describe The Wild Grape's style? New West cuisine, utilizing old world cooking techniques.
What do you think makes The Wild Grape unique? Our identity as a neighborhood eatery and not a special occasion restaurant, our staff and our guests.
How does Wild Grape incorporate the Old West into its menu? We use a wood-burning grill, with local cherry and apple wood, and try to incorporate culinary traditions of the Old West, such as our sarsaparilla barbeque and elements of "cowboy cooking."
How do you come up with new recipes? Our team takes inspiration from many different sources, and I believe in an atmosphere that everyone has something to contribute to the menu.
How do you decide what ingredients to pair? At this point in culinary history, almost everything has been done before. So it's more about reinterpreting classic flavors to meet the needs of our guests.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to be a chef? Start cooking at a restaurant that prepares their food from scratch and ask a lot of questions. Look for a new job every couple of years to keep your mind open and to continue to learn.
What's one cooking secret you could share with us? It sounds very simple, but cooking is all about the amount of heat that you expose the food to and at what time. Novice cooks tend to keep their burners at full blast. It takes time to learn the finesse of how much heat to cook with, and the perfect time to increase or decrease that heat.
Can you describe a new dish you're excited about? We're working on a lamb T-Bone dish that's paired with fava and cannelini beans, local roasted tomatoes, and a lavender honey jus. The Morgan Valley lamb works so well on our wood burning grill, and the heartiness of the lamb goes very well with the delicate sauce.
What role does wine play in the dining experience at The Wild Grape? Wine plays a huge role in the enjoyment of our food. Beverage and service is a very important part of the product that we offer our guests.
How are the wines selected at The Wild Grape? Our wine steward and manager, Stephanie, does an incredible job of finding very special wines that you won't find anywhere else in Utah.
Any special events coming up that you'd like to tell us about? We have new spring menus coming out in the next couple of weeks. We also have a new wine program starting March 4 that will showcase a new wine every Wednesday. The wine will be available with food pairings, and we will also be able to sell bottles to take home and enjoy.
Phelix Gardner
The Wild Grape
481 E. South Temple in Salt Lake City
801-746-5565
www.wildgrapebistro.com
Hours: Open daily. Lunch menu available Mon. -- Fri., 11 a.m. -- 3 p.m. In between menu available daily from 3 p.m. -- 5 p.m. Brunch menu available Sat. -- Sun. from 9 a.m. -- 3 p.m. Dinner menu available Sun. -- Mon., 5 p.m. -- 10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 5 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. Late menu available Mon. -- Sat., 9:30 p.m. -- Midnight.
Cuisine: New West Bistro
The Wild Grape opened in November, 2008.
City Weekly
Dining /Going Wild
Dining | Going Wild: New South Temple bistro Wild Grape is creating buzz and filling a dining niche for grown-ups.
By Ted Scheffler
Posted 01/01/2009
It’s a no-no when reviewing movies to give away the ending. It may also be an unwritten rule about restaurant reviews: Keep the readers hanging on and give the thumbs-up or down near the end. Well, screw that. I’m thrilled to usher in 2009 with a restaurant recommendation that I feel pretty damned secure about: The Wild Grape New West Bistro. About the only negative comment I can think of is that the name is kinda clunky.
“Have you been to that new place yet?” friends and colleagues kept asking me. This was mere days after Troy and Jessica Greenhawt opened The Wild Grape in the space on South Temple which was previously home to Avenues Bakery & Café. I don’t recall a restaurant creating such a quick buzz in a very long time; people here seem desperate for new dining options that aren’t franchises or chains. I’m among them.
Not a hint of Avenues Bakery remains. Troy Greenhawt informed his architect that he wanted “just the exterior walls” left standing. So now when you enter the restaurant there’s a nifty V-shaped bar to the left, and a spacious, airy, sunlit-by-day dining area on the right. In the rear of the restaurant is an open kitchen with counter seats for anyone caring to take in the cooking show that runs late; you can get food at The Wild Grape until midnight. Throughout the restaurant are faint hints of apple and cherry woods wafting from the wood-fired grill and smoker. Not enough to set off the smoke alarms, mind you—just enough to tantalize the senses.
A quick peek at the menu illustrates the Greenhawts’ commitment to use fresh, sustainable, locally produced and—when possible—organic products. The wood from the smoker comes from a chap down in Santaquin. The cheese plate ($11) features artisan cheeses from Beehive Cheese Co., served with a Crumb Brothers baguette. Locally made chèvre is used for the wood-grilled Portobello sandwich ($12), along with locally grown arugula. The sensational wood-grilled lamb burger is made with Morgan Valley lamb, served on Crumb Brothers focaccia with truffled whole-grain mustard. It’s the best lamb burger I’ve ever gotten my lips around. And speaking of lamb, chef Phenix Gardner and sous chef Shawn Smith do wonders with a Morgan Valley lamb shank ($27). A beautifully crusty exterior cloaks oh-so tender meat that, yes, “falls off the bone.” It comes braised with a ragout of wild mushroom, tomato, fingerling potato and house-smoked bacon. That is one scrumptious shank.
Although The Wild Grape is certainly a kid-friendly place to dine—there’s even a unique kids’ menu—there’s a distinctly grown-up, we’re-not-in-Utah vibe to the place. The service is friendly but very professional and informed. Customers aren’t treated like children, with canned presentations and group renditions of “Happy Birthday.” During my visits, I was continually impressed by my servers’ knowledge of the wine selection as well as the menu items. Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised. Owner Troy Greenhawt’s background includes management positions in corporate establishments like Fleming’s and Ruby River Steakhouse, where he developed a knack for spotting, nurturing and managing talent. From choosing a very capable new chef in Phenix Gardner and manager/wine expert Stephanie Bailey-Hatfield, on down the line, quality at The Wild Grape is startlingly high for a business that’s been open less than two months.
During one lunch visit, we broke into a bottle of Rolling Central Ranges Shiraz ($23) from Australia, a very tasty, easy drinking, not over-the-top Shiraz that paired perfectly with wood-grilled flank steak topped with bleu cheese and cooked medium-rare as requested. It came on toasted garlic-focaccia with a side of crisp and light rosemary “skinny” chips and tobacco onions. Mm, mm, good. Smoked Kurobuta pork belly ($13) isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s sinfully fatty and served with equally sinful creamy cheddar grits made with Beehive cheddar, those tobacco onions again and a rich, heady barbecue jus. To hell with the New Year’s diet; you owe yourself that pork belly.
The management has put together a very smart wine list—not the biggest in town, but one of the best. Prices are more than fair and most wines are available by either the glass or bottle, ranging from Wildhurst Sauvignon Blanc ($5/glass, $23/bottle) to Bucklin Old Hill Cabernet ($11/glass, $53/bottle). There’s also a limited bottle-only list which includes Orin Swift “The Prisoner” Zinfandel ($80) and Cakebread Chardonnay ($99). Where possible, The Wild Grape features organic and biodynamic wines like Jeriko Estate Grenache Noir. That part of the wine program is still a work-in-progress. Stay tuned.
I was struck by the low price ($12) of a dish as decadent as white truffle mushroom risotto, which is served with Crumb Brothers crostini and shaved Parmesan cheese. Another bargain menu item at The Wild Grape is the rotisserie-roasted Cornish game hen ($18), which comes with those creamy Beehive cheddar grits and freshly sautéed veggies, and was bathed in a lovely natural jus.
From 9:30 p.m. to midnight, Monday through Saturday, The Wild Grape shifts into its “after hours” bar-menu phase. We’re not talking pretzels and peanuts. There’s spiced goat-cheese flatbread ($7), along with butternut-squash soup ($5), a “petite baby” (redundant, I know) organic arugula salad ($5) and even a trio of sliders ($12): your choice of wild mushroom, Manchego, barbecue pork, flank steak & bleu cheese or bacon barbecue cheddar. Brunch is served on weekends.
With a restaurant so new, I hesitate to say that I’m wild about The Wild Grape. So let’s just say I’ve been duly impressed with the service, the décor, the wine, the food … ah, hell, I suppose I am wild about this place.
THE WILD GRAPE NEW WEST BISTRO
481 E. South Temple, 801-746-5565
WildGrapeBistro.com
Salt Lake Chow
Exciting New Bistro
The Wild Grape : New West Bistro
481 E South Temple Salt Lake City, UT 84101Phone: (801)746-5565
Hours
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11am-3pm
Brunch: Sat-Sun 9am-3pm
Dinner: Mon-Sun 5pm-10pm
Late: Mon-Sat 9:30pm-Midnight
It wasn't too long ago, that while driving down ye ole South Temple, a single tear escaped from my eye as I realized that the Avenues Bakery was no more. Luckily, the space was scooped up and The Wild Grape was born. As you can imagine, in my eyes, they had some pretty big shoes to fill but happily we were not let down.
What We Loved:
The Location: Downtown is not dead yet. (Although the huge amounts of construction and unsightly cranes are trying to kill it)
The Concept: The Wild Grape is a fully organic, local supporting establishment. (chowhounds step up on soap box) People of Salt Lake City! Lend me your ears! We have GOT to support local businesses. The only way to have more amazing eats and treats is to buy local and live local. I know we all love a good romp at the Olive Garden now and again, but come on. Live dangerously and try something new on the local front.
The Staff: Thanks Jason. Our dedicated and fun server. Look for him behind the bar, or at your table, but just look for him. He knows his stuff in a totally non-smarty pants kind of way. (meaning he won't make you feel dumb while he's pumping you full of fun food and wine facts.) The entire staff at this joint will make you feel at home. We got welcomes and hellos from a hostess, our server, the sous chef and the owner. You can tell they are really trying to do service right.
The Mouth Amuser: It just doesn’t sound as sexy in English does it. A quick way to the heart of a foodie is to serve a killer Amuse Bouche (wikipedia if your not familiar). Duck prosciutto and apple perched on a bit of profiterol (fancy for fried dough... who doesn’t love fried dough!) with a little cherry reduction to balance it all out. One bite to get you excited for what's to come... and trust us, one bite is all you could handle.
The Food: Ok... down to the nitty gritty. The food is delicious. You can taste the freshness and care that is put into each dish. We tried to sample a variety of things so here is a mild rundown
#1 Venison: Seared to the perfect balance of tenderness without looking like a crime scene and paired with a killer Cabernet reduction sauce that complimented the dish without taking over. The butternut squash gnocchi, dare I say it, almost (and that’s a big almost) out shined sweet little Bambi.
#2 The Risotto : We are of the belief, that if you put risotto on your menu, it better be pretty good. Luckily, The Wild Grape does not disappoint.
#3 The Scallops : What... I'm sorry I couldn't hear you over my taste buds singing with joy. Scallops in Utah is kind of like saying icicles in Phoenix, but they figured out how to get them here and how to get them cooked PERFECTLY! Throw in some roasted fingerling potatoes and you got yourself a meal.
The Desserts : Chocolate and Hazelnut Dome of Goodness and Pineapple Meringue Tart of Happy Taste Buds. We renamed them appropriately to really give you an idea of how stellar they were. Mmmmhmm.
The Adult Beverage Selection : I went in with high expectations on this front. When you name a restaurant The Wild Grape, you better have some damn good fermented ones on your menu. And they did! The wine list was created with a great clientele in mind... a clientele that loves wine but doesn’t have a degree in Oenology. There is a price point for almost anyone regardless if your looking for by the glass or by the gallon. High praise on the wide variety to be found by the glass and the fact that the server seemed to have an understanding of the entire menu... not just a few favorites. Stemware was par... a nice Cabernet glass with a cut rim. Only downside, everything was served in that glass. Our first bottle was a fairly delicate and sweet white which can turn rather sugary when served in such a caverness piece of crystal.The first bottle was the Zenato Pinot Grigio... as Pinot Grigio goes, it’s good enough. It wouldn’t honestly have been my first choice, but the ladies loved it. The server gets a high five for giving us multiple choices followed by tastes of the different choices... unfortunately for me, I got over ruled (I wanted the Matua Sauvignon Blanc). For the second bottle, we gave our server the ultimate challenge... Surprise us! Even the most experienced Sommeliers would sweat this challenge and yet our humble server accepted with aplomb... impressive! Especially since we had scallops, risotto, and venison coming and we wanted red for our main course (ouch). What did our talented attendant choose? Seghesio Sangiovese... top-notch pairing. It missed the target with only the scallops. The venison with it’s sweet cabernet reduction brightened right up with a taste of the ripe cherry from the Sangiovese and there was a enough of a nuttiness in the glass to support the richness of the risotto. Another high five goes out for not choosing the highest price wine on the menu just because the door was open to bump up the total on the ticket.My only grievance with the Wild Grape’s list is that it was a bit California heavy, but I think that it might be part of their support of buying “local” so I will go with the flow... hehe, with the flow! that one was unintended.(as Andrew Says.)
What We Only Liked:
Butternut Squash Soup w/ Brandy and Cinnamon Crème Fraiche: Just as decadent as it sounds and maybe a bit to a fault. The first couple slurps are pure heaven, but the sweetness just gets to be too much. Either lay back on the sugars or add a touch of something to ground the dish. Even just a bit of crostini to nibble on as you drink it down would help. Try it for sure... just split it between your table so each person only gets a few gulps.
Crab Cakes :Good, not great. They were a bit on the dry side for the minimal quantity of sauce drizzled onto the plate. Good flavors, just needed some moisture.
Pan Seared Calamari: Cooking tentacles is a tough job for many chefs (yes, the pun was intended). Not this time. The light snap followed by pure softness was the ideal texture for these little guys... that alone kept us going back for more. The turn off was a slight “oceanesque” flavor that lingered after you swallowed. Initially we were thinking they must have been tossed with a light fish stock, but when we asked the chef, no fish stock was used. Lets just say that it was the only dish that wasn’t completely obliterated within moments of reaching our table.
Atmosphere/Décor: Lets make this clear and concise, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the atmosphere and décor. BUT... it just could have been more inspiring. Very cozy with a nice balance of upscale and casual elements and it does work very well with the organic focus from the food. It wouldn’t take much, but it needs some type of crowning element that says “the food and service here are going to blow your mind”.
THE WILD GRAPE AT A GLANCE:
Food: Most Impressive. Try a variety on the menu they do a lot of things well
Service: Excellent.
Price: Average for a "nicer" eatery. Splurge on Wine. You won't be let down
Bathrooms: Clean, but just don't quite fit.
(Who Dined? Andrew, Michelle and Melanie)
In Utah This Week
Wild About The Wild Grape
Wild About The Wild Grape
This ‘new west bistro’ will make your taste buds sing.
by Kelly Ashkettle
kashkettle@inthisweek.com
The Wild Grape
481 E. South Temple
801-746-5565
www.wildgrapebistro.com
Hours: Lunch is served Mon. - Fri., 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. Brunch is served Sat. - Sun., 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. Dinner is served Mon. - Sun., 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. After hour bar menu is served Mon. - Sat., 9:30 p.m. - midnight
Highs: Creative ingredients blended with perfect balance and cooked to perfection; onsite wine steward, friendly and knowledgeable wait staff, cozy atmosphere.
Lows: Virtually non-existent; the only thing I can think of is that I might prefer a little more space between the tables.
(Kelly Ashkettle | In Utah This Week)
Vines and Vino: Butternut squash comes layered with sauteed spinach.
Proof that you must've been good this year: Cider Brined Pork Loin Chop with carmelized pear and walnut chutney, and fingerling potatoes.
The former site of Avenues Bakery now offers a fine dining experience.
I think I’m in love. Ever since Dec. 11, when IN editor Amy Spencer and I first visited The Wild Grape for dinner, I’ve been daydreaming about the place at least once a day. The “new west bistro” opened about a month ago in the space formerly occupied by Avenues Bakery, and my palate will be eternally grateful.
On our first visit to the cozy and casual-looking establishment, I ordered the Wild Grape Cider Brined Pork Loin Chop. Cooked over a wood burning grill, it was $30 and worth every cent. The pork was tender in the middle and crispy on the edges, with a hint of flavor from the fruit wood over which it was cooked. It was topped with crispy curls of onion and rested attractively on buttery-tasting fingerling potatoes covered with carmelized-pear-and-walnut chutney.
Wine steward Stephanie Bailey-Hatfield recommended a glass of Mark West Pinot ($5) to complement my meal, and the hints of blackberries in the wine went perfectly with the pear flavor in the chutney.
Amy had the Wild Mushroom Ravioli ($15), and her eyes got just as big as mine when she tasted it. But we were in heaven even before our main courses arrived, thanks to the Local & Artisan Cheese Tasting ($11). It was an assortment of Beehive Cheeses interspersed with Crumb Brothers baguettes and a side of apricot chutney that added just the right amount of sweet moistness.
All through the next week at work, we talked about our meal so often that we decided we had to take fellow IN staffers Amanda and Ryan there for our holiday lunch. This time the four of us had a seat a little closer to the kitchen, where we could see the chefs at work behind the bar. Amanda pointed out that patrons can sit there in the evenings to have a drink and order “Small Bites.”
We happened to get the same server on both visits, and we all agreed that Jonathan was a doll with his ready smile, quick service and well-informed recommendations.
This time around, I tried the Open Faced Prime Rib Sandwich ($12) because Jonathan told me that it was added to the menu after people “went crazy for it” when it was a featured as a special. It tasted like a gourmet Philly cheese steak. The prime rib was tender, juicy and flavorful. The melted Beehive cheddar was strong and rich. The caramelized onions added sweetness. The arugula greens added color and texture. And the horseradish jus was perfect for dipping.
Unusual ingredient choices seems to be one of The Wild Grape’s signatures. No matter the dish, I was always pleasantly surprised by the number of nontraditional elements and the harmony they formed. The chefs also seem to have an uncanny ability to time the precise moment when a dish has cooked long enough, as was the case with my bison soup, in which the carrots had the perfect amount of softness without crossing over into mushy.
There are great artists who balance form, color and texture with paint, words or notes. Now that I’ve experienced the work of Chef Phelix Gardner, I’ve found one who does it with food. Looking to impress a date? You can’t go wrong here.
For Zions Bank
I'm Fred Ball. I'm speaking on business
THE WILD GRAPE NEW WEST BISTRO
March 13, 2009
This is Fred Ball for Zions Bank, speaking on business.
A wonderful smell wafted over me when I entered The Wild Grape New West Bistro for my recent visit with owner Troy Greenhawt! My mouth started watering as I recognized the smell of an authentic wood-fired grill and smoker.
My delight increased when I sat down to chat with Troy and he told me about his vision for the charming restaurant. With 12 years of restaurant management experience, he was ready to begin his own restaurant, free from corporate franchise restrictions. He wanted to create a place that offers great service and great food while using as many local and organic products as possible. The result, the Wild Grape New West Bistro, opened two months ago and is what he deems "a true bistro."
The Wild Grape New West Bistro offers full lunch and dinner menus as well as an extensive wine list with bottles produced by some of the West's small and creative winemakers. The wood-grilled Morgan Valley lamb burger has become one of the eatery's most in-demand sandwiches. The pan-roasted venison medallions and apple-wood-grilled bison filets are also top sellers. And the smoked B.B.Q. pork tenderloin sandwich is one of the restaurant's signature dishes.
Even though many of the eatery's staple items are meat based, Troy still caters to all types of diners. He offers a range of vegetarian products, vegan soups and a gluten-free menu. He is also in the process of creating a frequent-diner program and gift certificates. In the summertime, Troy will open a covered patio that provides additional seating in a charming outdoor atmosphere. The Wild Grape is located on South Temple in the space formerly occupied by The Avenues Bakery.
Troy hopes to continue developing his restaurant concept with the freedom to change his menu since it's not a franchise. Highlights of operating the Wild Grape New West Bistro, he adds, are the great employees and the wonderful patrons who frequent it.
For Zions Bank, I'm Fred Ball. I'm speaking on business.
The Wild Grape New West Bistro
481 E. S. Temple
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
801-746-5565
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